Part VI - Half Atmosphere

Here is the last and final post regarding our trekking in Nepal. I hope you have enjoyed reading these as much as I have enjoyed writing them!

I'd like to correct something from our first posting. I mistakenly said that Mary worked for Sierra Systems - in fact, she does not, she works for the Ministry of Finance. (Sorry about that Mary!).

Also, please don't be shy to have a look at all the photo albums of the Nepal trip. The links to the various albums can be found on the right hand side.

Anyway, back to our final days in Nepal...

Day 15 – Yak Kharka to Thorong Phedi
Tuesday, November 17th
Hiking Time: 3 hours
Elevation: 4540m

(Christine) Today was a relatively straight forward hike where we gained 500 meters vertical elevation. We could certainly feel the thinner air, especially on the steeper bits of trail. The trail was rocky and snowy as we are above the treeline now. The trail is filled with westerners, mainly a large group of French people. We generally hike faster than them, likely because we are more acclimatized. We have seen yaks wandering down the path alone and I wonder where they are going, but I’m sure they probably the same about us. (Left - one trail we zigzagged down).

Umbang found us a nice tea house in Thorong Phedi to stay at. Staying in the tea houses has been a different experience than staying in the tents. I am glad to have experienced both, but after a few nights in tea houses I must admit I prefer the intimacy of camping with the group. The tea house rooms are unheated so they are actually a lot colder than the tents as the space is larger and often drafty. The tea houses are made of mud and rock and are never more than two stories tall. Floors are sometimes wood, sometimes dirt or sometimes rock. The rooms are sparse with two beds and a light bulb. The light may or may not work depending on if the power is functioning (one can never assume it is working) so it is prudent to always carry your head lamp.

The tea houses usually have a central area that is heated by coals or a fire and is where the food is served. Food will usually take a minimum of 1.5 – 2 hours after been ordered to come as there is usually only one woman cooking and she cooks one meal at a time. The food is generally really quite good and you can get traditional Nepalese Dal Bot (rice and lentils), mo-mo’s (similar to a perogy) or western foods such as macaroni and cheese, spaghetti and pizza. People generally congregate in the central area as it is very cold outside or in the rooms and here you can chat with fellow trekkers. That said, everyone in the tea house is a foreigner apart from the staff so it is difficult to see or experience any of the Nepalese culture. The tea houses exist purely for the trekkers and were non-existent not too long ago. (Right - the trail to Thorong Phedi).

Tomorrow we summit the Thorong La, a pass of 5416 meters. Our plan is to leave at 4:00 am to get away before most of the other trekkers as there will be many people hiking the pass tomorrow. It’s off to bed early to get as much sleep as possible.

Day 16 – Thorong Phedi to Muktinath
Wednesday, November 18th
Hiking Time: 11.5 hours
Elevation Reached: 5416m
Camp Elevation: 3700m

(Christine) The morning began at 2:45 am, with the sound of our alarm beeping and the Sherpas knocking on the door with tea. Tiredly we climbed out of bed and prepared ourselves for an extra early start. We had to wake the kitchen crew up to make us some breakfast that we had ordered the night before and then donned our headlamps and began the 1100 meter climb to the summit of the Thorong La. Unfortunately Hovan’s tummy had decided it didn’t like the spaghetti from the night before and so had emptied itself in the middle of the night. Hovan was doing okay, but was unable to eat anything and had a very sore stomach. Thankfully the nausea that had bothered him on the Kang La wasn’t rearing its ugly head today, but with Hovan not feeling great, we started off into the darkness with only our headlamps and the stars as the source of light. (Left - Hovan hiking in the dark. Icicles are beginning to grow on his beard).

Never having hiked in the darkness before, I must admit this was a really amazing experience. The sky was clear and the stars shone brightly all around us. A few times I was fortunate to see shooting stars. We could see dark mountain peaks everywhere, but the only reason we could tell they were there was because there were stars missing from that part of the sky. There was no moon and so it was in true darkness that we hiked. (Right - Dawn approaching in the morning).

The trail started out rocky, but quickly became snow and remained snow until the summit. It was quite cold and we both hiked in our down jackets, gloves, fleece pants and toques. We stayed close as a group and no one strayed to far ahead or behind. Icicles began to grow on Hovan’s beard and one particularly long icicle grew to nearly an inch long. Hovan kept reminding me not to knock them off as they might break large chunks of the beard off with it.

Above - Hovan's beard growing icicles

As dawn approached we began to see the mountains take shape all around us. They were beautiful and changed colour as the sky began to lighten. As the sun rose over the mountains, the magnificent mountains emerged on every side. It was truly a sight! (Left - The sun rising over the mountains).




We reached the top of the summit after 5 hours of grueling but beautiful uphill climbing. The sun was fully shinning by the time we reached the top and we were finally able to take off our warm down jackets. The top was decorated with prayer flags and a sign congratulating us on our achievement. (Right - Our group on the summit of Thorong La).

The descent of 1700 meters took us 6 hours. Amazingly, our beloved Sherpa Umbang, who was in charge of getting us a tea house in the village of Muktinath, took one hour and 45 minutes to descend as he was trying to race 6 other Sherpas to get the best tea house in the village of Muktinath. He said he came in second place and was able to secure us the “Dream House”. At the “Dream House”, Hovan had to again rescue someone, this time it was Sharon who Robyn accidentally locked in her room. This was very amusing to us, and we wondered if it was truly an “accident”. (Left - The trail down to Muktinath).

That evening we played cards with the Sherpas and the porters which began as a simple game of pair making then as more Rakshi (a local spirit) got drank degenerated into a game of three card draw poker where cheating was abundant by both the Nepalese and by Hovan and I. All in all we had a wonderful time and everyone was laughing and in good spirits. Sleep was welcome that night as the day had started so early.

Day 17 – Muktinath to Jomsom
Thursday, November 19th
Hiking Time: 0 hours
Elevation: 3200m

(Hovan) Today we decided that we would take the Jeep ride from Muktinath to Jomsom, the only place on the entire trek where it was possible to take a Jeep. Roads have been reaching further and further into the Himalayas as both the Chinese and the Indians build trade routes. The trip over the Thorang La was pretty arduous and after 18 days of trekking the Jeep ride sounded like a really fun idea.

After enjoying sleeping in until 7:00 we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the Tea House and then made our way to the Jeep. The Jeep had a number of seats, but we crammed in one Sherpa, 4 Porters, Mick and most of the crew (two people and two Sherpas decided to take the 6 hour walk between the two villages). After squeezing all of us into the vehicle we went for a bumpy, twisty, fun ride down the mountain, hugging the cliffside at certain points as we went. It was a lot of fun and a unique experience to cover so much ground in such a short time. (The Jeep we rode in to get to Jomsom).

Above - the view from the Teahouse in Muktinath

Once we reached Jomsom we settled into a Tea House and proceeded to explore the town. At one point Christine, Robyn, Sharon and myself went up to visit a museum on the Mustang Region, which is where we had been trekking through the last few days. When we exited the museum we found that a huge wind storm had come up, and even though the valley was quite wide it was funneling down something wicked. It was a good indication to us why sometimes flights were canceled due to weather. (Left - Streets of Jomsom).

We spent the late afternoon hanging out with the Sherpa’s and preparing to say good-bye. They had all been such an invaluable part of our journey and had gone over and above the entire trip to make us feel special and very well cared for. In the evening we enjoyed our final dinner on the trail as a group at a very nice restaurant. After dinner we all bunked down to have our last night sleep in the mountains before heading back to the big city and the hustle-bustle of life we left behind.

Final Days – Jomsom to Kathmandu
Friday, November 20th – Sunday, November 22nd

(Christine) Sadly this was our last day in the Himalayas as today is the day we fly back to Kathmandu. If we were to take the bus, it would be a 17 hour bus ride back to Kathmandu so I’m thankful we are not doing that option.

We got up at 5:30 in order to be ready for our 7:00 am flight. Thankfully there is no commute to the airport as it is literally right across the street. Before we left the Sherpa Dawa gave us each prayer scarfs as a parting gift. It was sad to say goodbye to the Sherpa’s and Porters after nearly 3 weeks together. We’d come to know them quite well and they’d done an excellent job leading us through the Himalayas, guiding us when we were afraid, carrying our packs when we were sick and generally providing encouragement and support along the way. (Right - the plane we flew on out of the mountains).

The airport in Jomsom consists of one landing strip and one tiny building. There were no x-ray machines and so the security attendant just searched our bags thoroughly for any contraband. We flew in a Canadian Twin Otter and it made me feel very safe to be in a home made plane in which I’ve flown many times for work back and forth to Vancouver.

Above - the airstrip in Jomsom

On the flight Mick and I held the hands of an elderly Nepalese woman who was seemingly terrified of flying. Despite the language barrier, I could tell she was thankful that we were there. She had likely not flown more than a handful of times in her life. With the mountains everywhere, the flight was actually quite turbulent but also incredibly spectacular. It was just like a shot out of National Geographic, flying down huge valleys in a small plane, sandwiched by enormous gorgeous mountains. A second hopper flight from Pokhra took us to Kathmandu where, if you were fortunate enough to sit on the left hand side, you were treated to view of the entire Annapurna range. (Left - Views of the Annapurna range from the plane).

In Kathmandu we were delighted to meet up with Kevin, Gerry, Glen & Mary whom we had parted with only 4 days earlier and we easily resumed the comradery we had enjoyed while on the trek. Thankfully they were feeling much better and it was great see them eat healthy portions of food. Hovan proudly managed to eat a half pound burger at one restaurant, something he'd been dreaming of the entire journey. (Right - Hovan and his half pound burger)

A final night of food and drink together led to an amusing story as our super cool fighter pilot (Jarrett) perhaps a little inebriated, decided he wanted to drive a rickshaw. He managed to find a rickshaw driver who would let him do such a thing, and, treating the rickshaw like a mountain bike, took a corner way too quickly and crashed it. Thankfully he was unhurt, and so was the bike and driver (who was riding on the back of the rickshaw), but the story stuck and he became known by a new call sign "Rickshaw".

Sadly, we parted ways and our journey in Nepal came to a close. I must admit, despite the difficulties we encountered, the trek has been my favourite part of our trip to date. It was everything I expected, and nothing I expected (if that makes any sense). We saw some of the most beautiful, remote parts of the Himalayas, practically untouched by our Western society. I built relationships with wonderful people from home and abroad, I was led down a mountain by a Buddhist monk who took me places I did not think possible, I saw people carrying wood for days just to keep warm at night, I experienced an incredibly beautiful culture and I grew with Hovan as he experienced one of the toughest mornings of his life. It has truly been an amazing once in a lifetime experience for me.

And now, it's on to our next adventure, but this trek is one I'm sure never to forget.

All the best,
Christine (and Hovan)

Part V - The Kang La

Day 12 – Kang La Phedi to Ngawal
Saturday, November 14th
Hiking Time: 9 hours
Elevation Reached: 5340m
Camp Elevation: 3600m

(Christine) This morning started at 4:30 am for Hovan and I, although not by choice. Unfortunately, Hovan suffered another bought of Montezooma’s revenge. And boy was it revenge, with at least 10 trips to the toilet tent for Hovan between 4:30 and 6:00 am complete with some cursing with a few choice unfavourable phrases about Nepal. Unfortunately today was the toughest day possible to be ill. Not only was Hovan ill, so was Kevin and the two alternated all morning in the toilet tents.

Hovan managed to make it out of bed into hiking gear in preparation to cross the 5340 meter pass, the highest both Hovan and I have ever been on foot. Snow fell as we set out very slowly at 7:45 am to cross the pass. When I say slowly, I mean slowly. At the elevation we were at there was nearly half the amount of oxygen as there is at sea level and Hovan was so nauseated that he walked only a few steps before pausing and bending over his walking poles. At one point, as Hovan was emptying the contents of his stomach (he seemed to have problems coming out both ends in addition to severe nausea) near the side of the trail, I managed to take his bag from him and give it to Chasang, one of the Sherpas. I was thankful for this as I knew it was at least a four hour climb to the top of the pass followed by a descent of 1700 meters on the other side. Kevin was feeling similarly awful and both Hovan and Kevin hiked slowly step by step up the pass. I was very amazed at their strength and perseverance as the climbed up the pass. Both hadn’t eaten or drank anything and were incredibly sick the whole way up. We probably averaged four or five steps before Hovan had to stop and lean on his poles as waves of nausea passed. Nevertheless, five hours later, we summited the pass and Hovan said that the morning was the most difficult he’d ever had in his whole life. We were accompanied the entire time by the Cirdar Devi, who was supportive, encouraging and also was carrying an oxygen tank so I knew if Hovan deteriorated we’d have oxygen close at hand. Thankfully the oxygen wasn’t required, but it was nice to have near. Devi was also very concerned that we not take long breaks, so every time Hovan would sit, he would tell him that we need to keep moving slowly and that breaks in the snow were not a good idea. I should also note that the nausea was not at all related to the altitude. It was likely something Hovan and Kevin had eaten. Thankfully I was feeling OK (although of course worried) so I could provide encouragement and support to Hovan. (Right - Hovan climbing the Kang La Pass)

The funniest part of the day was on the way up to the top of the pass when we were passed by a monk from the village of Nar. After some conversation with him, we discovered that he was hiking to the top of the snow covered 5340 meter pass to make a cell phone call, as this was the only place in the region that had reception. The distance from Nar took us 8 hours to hike, it probably took him 5 hours or so, but it sure gave a whole new meaning to a long distance phone call! I was amused to watch the monk sitting in the snow at the top of this massive pass, chatting happily on his cell phone, just like this was the most normal thing in the world to do. (Left - Hovan pretending to be enjoying himself).

The top of the pass was topped with a Chorten and prayer flags. I managed to get some gravol in to Hovan which I believe made the descent easier for him. And boy, was it a descent! We went down, and down and down 1700 meters. Near the top it was so steep that Mick set up some rope as a safety line. Thankful for the rope, we picked our way slowly through the snow and rock. The snow slowly turned to loose rock scree and as we descended, the pine trees started to appear and the air began to thicken. Never having experienced such an extreme change in air thickness, I finally realized what my mother-in-law means when she says there is so much oxygen in Victoria. (Right - the descent down the Kang La).

About an hour away from camp, some of the kitchen crew met us with hot juice and cookies. The unbelievably dedicated crew had hiked their loads over the pass, down to camp, boiled water, prepared the juice and hiked back up 1.5 - 2 hours to meet us. At this point Hovan was feeling exhausted, but not so nauseated, likely due to the gravol and the fact that there was absolutely nothing left in his system. (Left - the Kang La Pass, up to the right of the massive peak)

We reached the camp around 4:30 pm and Hovan began to stumble a little, likely due to the fact that his mind knew he didn't have to keep going anymore and was telling him he needed to lie down. He crawled into the tent, not to emerge until the next morning feeling much much better. Kevin similarly slept 14 hours and also was much better the next day. It was an incredibly long and challenging day for both of us. I'll admit it was more mentally challenging for me as I was so worried about Hovan, and extremely physically challenging for Hovan as he was ridiculously ill and climbing a 5340 meter pass is difficult when you are healthy. Nevertheless, we made it together and are stronger for it.

Four turned up for dinner that evening (Jarrett, Mick, Robyn & myself). Unfortunately both Sharon and Ian had suffered stomach upsets, but luckily not until they reached the camp, ate some food and lied down. Mary was also still recovering from a cold or the flu she'd had back in Kathmandu. Also, little did we know at the time, but both Gerry and Glen hadn't been able to eat more than a dry cracker for days and were also feeling very ill and were both exhausted and resting in their tents. Now Glen and Gerry are probably the most silent sufferers I have ever encountered. Not once did we hear a word of complaint from them, not once did we hear them say they couldn't do something, or didn't want to get out of bed or the latest status of their stomachs. They had endured all of their discomfort in silence and I'm sure they did this in part selflessly not to ruin the experience for others. I’d like to send out an acknowledgement to the two of them as the most silent sufferers and two of the strongest guys I’ve ever met.

Even though 7 of the 10 of us were too tired or sick to make it out of the tent, those of us who did were extremely amused at a donkey (now named Bubbles), who, decided he really liked the smell of the strawberry bar soap we were using to wash our hands. He crept up silently behind Robyn and in a moment of donkey stealthiness, ate the entire bar of soap! We laughed as we pictured bubbles coming out the other end of the donkey. (Right - Bubbles the donkey).


Day 13 – Ngawal to Braka
Sunday, November 15th
Hiking Time: 3 hours
Elevation: 3360m

(Christine) Today was a much easier day which was good as over half the team is still ill or recovering from some sort of illness. Thankfully I am well, but Hovan, Sharon, Ian, Kevin, Gerry and Glen are still not 100%. I have been doing my best to eat well and take care as I would like to keep my strength up in case anyone needs extra assistance. (Although in reality, the sherpas and porters would be more help as they could easily carry one of us out of the mountains should the need arise. They are the toughest guys around! Some of the group actually saw a porter carrying a woman out in a basket). (Left - Views from our hike Day 13).

The walk today was flat or downhill through beautiful pine forest dotted with tiny villages, tea stops or agriculture fields. We rejoined the main Annapurna circuit after about three hours and started seeing a lot more foreigners after being out in the less explored areas for nearly a week and a half. We saw stores where we could buy coke, sprite, chips and various other western comforts. These things had been either impossible or very difficult to find during the past week. Looking back, the places we saw were magical, unique and really felt like the end of the world. It stretched my mind to see life in the remote places and it was sad in a way to rejoin what is possibly one of the most trekked regions in the Himalayas.

We are to spend the night in a tea house which was a real treat after 2 weeks in a tent without a shower. A real bed and a luke-warm shower is incredibly heavenly!

In the afternoon, Mick, Jarrett, Robyn and I (the four healthy ones) decided to try to find a nearby cave which is supposed to have been the spot where a Buddhist who killed his father reached enlightenment. He is somewhat of a local hero, demonstrating that even people who commit terrible deeds can reach enlightenment. After walking across a donkey field, we began a 1000 meter climb through pine forest. The trail was quite good, not too steep, and quite muddy in places. About halfway up we reached a chorten that was high up perched looking over the valley below. We continued our climb and the mud turned to snow. We continued to climb and after about two hours we reached a Gompa and whole multitude of buildings nestled high up in the Himalayas. Prayer flags cascaded down cliff faces and a grand stone staircase led up to an ornately decorated statue of Buddha. Although we looked around and found some sandals outside a door, it appeared there was no one living up there at this time of year, possibly it was too cold. This place was truly magical as it was almost like a little village nestled way up in the mountains, not something you’d stumble across by accident. The cave appeared to be further up the hillside and we weren’t able to reach it as we were running out of light. The path to the cave appeared to be quite treacherous as it wound along the cliff face. We later learned that the cave is inaccessible as you need a ladder to get in and the original ladder disintegrated many years ago. In any case, it was a fascinating trip up into the mountains to find this hidden gem. (Right - the multitude of buildings we discovered. Left - the grand staircase).

We all ran down the mountain side for the pure fun of it and it took us 45 minutes instead of the 2 hours it took us to climb up. I realized at this point how fit I’d become in the past two weeks as running in these mountains at a fast pace was not difficult at all. I enjoyed it immensely and only wondered what it would feel like if I was at sea level.

Day 14 – Braka to Yak Kharka
Monday, November 16th
Hiking Time: 4 hours
Elevation: 4050m

(Hovan) Today we effectively saw a breaking of the Fellowship of the Trek. Over breakfast Mick explained that we were at a crossroads in our journey and everyone had to make a decision for themselves. A number of us have been sick over the last number of days and this was our one and only opportunity to make our way back to Kathmandu or to carry on for the next several days over the Thorang La mountain range.

I was still not feeling great, but the worst of my illness had passed on the Kang La day. I knew that Christine was fit and excited to carry on with the trek, and I was certainly feeling on the mend and that we could press on. Unfortunately, Glen and Gerry were both seeing no improvement and the two of them had been suffering in silence for a long time. It was concerning that neither of them had eaten really anything in many days, and there energy levels had to be almost finished. It was incredible how far the two of them hiked over such challenging terrain without saying anything or complaining at all. In the end though they made the prudent decision to take the necessary rest they needed.

We traveled as a group the short distance to Manang, a regional hub, where some visited a doctor and the rest of us enjoyed their baked goods. We had some sad good-byes as we parted with Glen and Gerry (Mary and Kevin escorted them on the trek back to Kathmandu). After so long together and enjoying the wonderful company of Kevin, Glen, Gerry, and Mary, we were sorry to part with them. (Right - the Manang Aid Post where it was possible to visit a doctor).

At this point, Mick also sent most of the porters, all the donkeys, Devi and Raj back down the trail. We had a nice send off with all of them and handed out everyone’s tips at that point since they were all heading home and we wouldn’t have another chance to get all together as a group. The rest of us took the best Sherpa’s and the strongest porters and carried on the trek, doing so in the Tea House fashion. Most people on the Annapurna circuit do so by staying in tea houses, which are like motels with shared washrooms and if you’re lucky, warmish showers. (Left - Thanking the Sherpas).

We carried on our trek and enjoyed a relatively easy day of climbing up and alongside the mountain. The path on the Annapurna circuit was a lot smoother, wider and more casual compared to what we usually did. Along the way we started to get views of some amazing mountain ranges. We also discussed the rest of our trip with Mick and the decision was made to take the Thorang La pass instead of Tilicho. The Thorang La pass has a higher altitude, but Tilicho is considered a much harder climb. Given the shape our group was in and that some of us were still getting over some stomach problems, it seemed the wisest course of action.

We arrived at Yak Kharka partway through the afternoon and it took a moment for us to recognize that the designation of ‘Yak’ in the villages title held a practical meaning, as there were yak herds all over the mountainside, in the town and everywhere. We spent the rest of the afternoon and evening relaxing, playing cards, eating dinner and hanging out. At one point I went out of Christine and my room to get something and I heard Robin call my name. It turns out that when her mom left the room she accidentally flipped the latch closed, and even though she didn’t padlock it, it had the same affect for anyone (in this case Robin) inside the room. Being the nice guy that I am, I let her out of her temporary prison.

The group seemed really small without our 4 compatriots and all of the team that was with us. It was also strange to be staying in rooms and eating in a restaurant instead of the tents we have grown accustomed to. That said, we will just take each day as it comes and enjoy what lies in the days ahead.

Part IV – Following a Buddhist monk down a mountains

Day 9 – Around Phoo

Wednesday, November 11th
Hiking Time: 5 hours
Elevation reached: 5000m
Camp Elevation: 4200m

(Christine) This morning we were treated to a tour of the village of Phoo by a Buddhist monk who inhabits the monastery we were fortunate to see yesterday. He led us through the narrow dirt paths of Phoo, up through some narrow passageways into an old house where the back room was over 400 years old and housed ancient Buddhist statues, musical instruments and furs. This room is rarely seen by anyone and I’m certain that we were among the first ever white people to set foot in the room. The room used to be where the Buddhist practiced before moving to the monastery on the hill nearby. This was obviously no tourist stop. (Left - Ancient Buddhist statues in the old back room).

After touring the village and seeing some yaks for the first time from a distance, the group trekked up another 300 vertical meters to help with acclimatization. At this point the whole group was given the option of climbing the nearby 5000 meter peak, or returning to camp for a much needed rest day. Three of us, (Jarrett, Ian and myself) plus Mick, the monk Lakma and the Sherpa Chasang decided to try for the 5000 meter peak, while the rest of the group opted to descend back to camp for a little R & R. What would follow was probably the craziest, coolest, hike I’ve ever been on in my life. (Right - Child in the village of Phoo).

The six of us headed up, and up, and up, for about two and a half hours. (We’d already hiked up for an hour and a half!). There was no trail really, and we just had to pick our way up the mountain, through the loose dirt and prickly plants. To my delight, Chasang discovered an old sheep skull, completely with a massive set of horns and fur on the nose. (Left - Chasang with a sheeps skull).

On our way up, as it was November 11th, Remembrance Day, we shared a moment of silence. This had particular significance for Ian who lost a close friend Andrew in Afghanistan recently. We also saw chortens and Buddhist prayer flags near the top – it is amazing to find these monuments everywhere in the Himalayas, even in the most remote, unexpected places. Griffon vultures soared 20 feet above our heads, seemingly curious about these people on the mountain top. The griffons are huge birds whose wing span is at least 6 feet.

Above - View from near the top of the 5000 meter peak

The views from the top were phenomenal of course, and we were able to see the mountain Manaslew, one of the 14 peaks in the world that is over 8000m. It had its own weather system blowing from the top and towered above nearby peaks. We gasped as the Sherpa Chasang ran laughing up to the sheer cliff face to peer over, seemingly unaffected by the 4 hour climb and the sheer drop off of the mountain face. (Right - Chasang waving from the top)

During our preparations to head back down to camp, the monk Lakma told us that he knew of an easier way down, which involved going down the other side of the mountain instead of heading back the way we came. Admittedly I was not looking forward to going down the way we came up – while it was not exposed, it was steep and there was a lot of loose dirt which makes it harder to go down. Mick hummed and hawed, asked us how we felt about following this monk we had just met, and upon our agreement, we decided to follow this devout Buddhist down the other side of the mountain. Little did I know, this monk would lead us on the most incredibly insane trail I have ever been on in my life. (Left - On the summit from left to right Jarrett, Ian, Lakma, myself and Chasang).

The hike started off easy, through some snow down to an old hut where the yak herders stay. Lakma also pointed out a spring high up in the mountains. As the story was told, a famous Buddhist struck the rock at this place and water came forth. During the summer the whole village treks up to bathe in as their belief is that the spring will heal them. (Right - Hiking down the other side of the mountain).

As we continued down a nice easy mountain dirt path, we turned a corner and the path changed dramatically. I realized that we were on the same path we had seen yesterday from the monastery, an extremely exposed, winding, narrow trail along the side of a sheer mountain. The monk seemed completely unaffected by the extreme change in the path, as if this was the most regular path in the world. As we began following Lakma down the trail I realized that physically yes, the trail was much easier, but mentally, this trail was much much more difficult as it was extremely exposed. The trail was about a foot and a half wide in the best of places and in others was practically non existent or merely a scree slope where if you didn’t step carefully you would be sliding down thousands of feet of rock. The path wound around many corners and each time we turned a corner and saw the path (or lack of path) in front of us, I kept thinking to myself, how in the world are we going to make it across that?!? But, I just watched the monk glide along the path effortlessly without a care in his shoes that were far too big for him and thought to myself, if he can do it, I can do it too. And we did do it, helping and encouraging each other along the way. At times the monk would hold out a helping hand and the Sherpa would hop out onto seemingly nothing and hold out his hands to make a foot hold for our feet when there wasn’t anything to stand on. Of course to a monk, who’d spent his entire life in the Himalayas, this trail would not bother him in the least, but to us it was the most exposed hiking we’d ever done. The two hours it took us to descend this path really truly felt like Indiana Jones. (Left - Path down the mountain. Right - Helping each other out across the steep bits. Left - Lakma making his way down the path).

Following the monk, we made it safely down and were so happy and relieved that hugs ensued. I asked Mick if he’d do the trail again and he said he wouldn’t, but at the time the group was strong and he felt that we had the strength to be safe on the trail. Lesson leaned: if a Buddhist monk offers to lead you down a mountain, you can trust him, but know that he’ll probably take you places you wouldn’t dream of ever going on your own. (Right - Lakma describing the meaning of the inscriptions).

Upon reaching the village of Phoo, more excitement came as a helicopter landed in the village to rescue a climber from a nearby expedition. This was only the second time a helicopter had ever landed in the village of Phoo and the entire village came out to watch. I’m sure some of these people had never seen a helicopter before. (Left - Helicopter landing in the village of Phoo).



Day 10 – Phoo to Mahendra Pul
Thursday, November 12th
Hiking Time: 7.5 hours
Elevation: 3490m

Above - Mountains socked in

(Christine) Today was a long day of hiking. We backtracked all the way back to Kyang (Phoo’s winter village) and then past to a place called Mahendra Pul where we would make our camp for the night. After 9 straight days of sunshine, the weather finally shifted on us which meant snow at the higher elevations. Many of us pulled out or wet weather gear for the first time in 10 days. At lunch it began snowing particularly heavily. The Sherpas and kitchen crew were so kind that they excitedly erected a makeshift cover from a tarp and hiking poles. Due to the lack of trees at the higher elevation, some of the Sherpas stood holding the tarp for us as we ate hurriedly in the cold under the tarp. These Sherpas and kitchen staff are amazingly hard working people. (Left - Sherpa holding the tarp up for us to eat under).

Descending into Mahendra Pul was quite an experience as the trail descended crumbly steep rock before reaching a new suspension bridge that spanned a very narrow, very deep canyon. It was probably at least 200 feet high. The old bridge sat right next to the new bridge and I was incredibly glad that we no longer had to cross the old bridge. It did not look at all secure. (Left - old unsecure bridge).

As we neared the campsite the snow turned to rain, but we could really feel as the air became thicker and easier to breathe. Unfortunately Glen has fallen ill and is unable to keep any food down and so hopefully this thicker air will help his sickness. Tomorrow we are set to climb up 1100 meters in preparation for crossing the Kang La Pass (5340 meters).

Day 11 – Mahendra Pul to Kang La Phedi
Friday, November 13th
Hiking Time: 7 hours
Elevation: 4600m

(Hovan) Today was an intense day as we wound up gaining more than 1000 metres of elevation. The morning started off with a very slow 700 metre hike straight up a mountain side. Perhaps the most common phrase on the trek is Bistari Bistari which is Nepalese for slowly slowly and today we fully engaged the phrase. We started getting into the snow line and spent most of the morning on a safe but steep cliffs edge. Just as we were nearing the top we came across a field full of yaks. Yaks are as you would expect for animals that only live over 3500 metres, large, hairy and tough. There were dozens of them all around us and we managed to get quite close as they are a loose herd shepherded by an absent Nar villager (are they Narnian's from Nar?). (Right - the path we hiked up. Left - Yak).

When we arrived at Nar for lunch we found ourselves with some spare time, having made the climb faster than Mick had anticipated. Once in the village we saw that there was a funeral procession with singing and prayer wheels and other activities. We enjoyed a nice lunch, a sherpa vs. porter snowball fight and then carried on for the afternoon.

The afternoon only saw about 400 metres in elevation gain, but it was along a valley that seemed to have no end. We were warned that the valley seemed interminably long and they seemed to be proved out. The walk was not without spectacular mountains towering all around, but it seemed like a bit of a trudge to get to camp. We finally rolled in about mid-afternoon, finding our campsite near the base of the Kang La, the mountain whose pass was to be our most challenging test of all. It was an imposing mountain but a beautiful site, and for the most part we were excited for the next day. (Right - View from where we ate lunch).

All of the trekkers had dinner and went to bed early to try and get some rest for the treks hardest day. The Nepalese staff however seemed un-phased and continued their usual evening celebrations and partying. Chesang in particular never seemed to run out of a full tank of energy and could guide us all day, set up our tents, serve us our meal, dance, sing, run around laughing and joking, party all night and then do it again the next day. We however settled into our sleeping bags early in hopes of a good sleep before the big day.

View more photos from Part IV

Part III - Mountain paths, hot springs & ice falls

Day 5 – Koto to Dharamshala

Saturday, November 7th
Hiking Time: 7 hours
Elevation: 3200m

(Christine) Today we left the main Annapurna circuit and headed north towards the Nar and Phoo region. We are told there are not many trekkers in this region and the villages are more traditional in nature instead of catering to westerners with tea houses and stores. (Left - The gates into the Nar & Phoo Region)

The trail today wound its way alongside a raging river towards Singenge Dharamshala, where we made our camp for the night at 3200 meters. The trail was an impressive feat in itself, often etched out of the cliff faces with the river rushing many feet below. (Right - Pathways etched into cliff faces).

The terrain has definitely changed to sub alpine and I imagine in the next day or two we will be above the tree line. The plants remind of BC in the fall, the pines, ferns and some deciduous trees. Perhaps the oddest thing is the bamboo which grows in amongst all the foliage.

The highlight of the day was when we came across a sign that said “Hot Springs” with an arrow pointing down a side trail. A few of us decided to follow the sign and were delighted to find an extremely hot, stinky trickle of water coming out of some rocks and running into the river. Sharon, Robin and I removed our shoes and socks and soaked our feet while the Sherpas excitedly explored a small nearby cave. The water was near boiling at the point it emerged so we had to sit near to the river so the hot would mix with the cold and would be bearable. It was very relaxing. (Left - The Sherpas exploring the nearby cave).

The other highlight was a huge waterfall where the trail was etched into the cliff face directly behind the waterfall. It was just like the movie “Last of the Mohicans” (minus the part were you jump into the waterfall to escape people hunting you). (Right - The waterfall we passed behind).

The weather is definitely chillier now, and I have taken to wearing my long johns under my trekking pants. Little did I know at this time, that I would wear the long johns for the next two weeks straight! Hovan is still in shorts of course as he overheats pretty easily and rarely gets cold.

For eating lunch and dinner we are provided with a table, chairs and a mess tent. This is extremely luxurious and the tent is great as it keeps out the wind and it is actually quite warm when you stuff in 11 people, some candles and delicious food.

Mick has indicated that tomorrow may be “the best trekking day ever” and so it is off to bed early in preparation for another great day ahead.

Day 6 – Dharamshala to Kyang
Sunday, November 8th
Hiking Time: 8 hours
Elevation: 3820m

(Hovan) Today we continued our journey up the Nar and Phoo valley, off the beaten track and well away from the Annapurna circuit. The trail is significantly more difficult and above the tree line. Along the way we passed a lot of chortens and other Buddhist prayer flags. (Right - the way to Phoo).

The area has a lot of history and we passed by a couple of Tibetan settlements that have long since been abandoned. Apparently some Tibetans were based in the valley and launching successful attacks against the Chinese in Tibet. The Chinese lobbied the Nepalese government to relocate the Tibetans to the other end of Nepal. It seems sad to walk past the abandoned villages. (Left - Old Tibetan settlements).

We passed along another village that is empty in the summer and full of people from Nar in the winter. It is only a 3 hour walk from Nar, but it functions as a slightly warmer, slightly less snowy location at 3500 meters. We ended our day trekking into the winter village of Phoo, about three hours from the actual village of Phoo. The winter location is called Kyang and sits on this beautiful plateau above a huge steep valley and below some spectacular mountains.

Above - Our camp in the village of Kyang

The day held some difficult trekking and elevation gains and losses. A number of us experienced some mild headaches due to the overall elevation gain. All in all the group is doing excellent in relation to altitude sickness because our guide Mick has been doing a great job of making sure we don’t gain too much altitude, too fast.

Day 7 – Rest Day at Kyang
Monday, November 9th
Hiking Time: 3 hours
Elevation: 3820m

(Hovan) We finally found a day that was classified as a rest day, but apparently that means a "small" acclimatization hike, since we have nothing better to do. It was another beautiful day and the extra time at this incredibly picturesque location seemed like a good idea to everyone. The porters and cook staff were also really happy that they didn't need to carry anything today.

Another bonus to the rest day is that we got to sleep in, which meant that our tea/coffee and hot water washing bowls didn't arrive until 7 am. After breakfast we set out for a 3 hour jaunt up several hundred metres. The elevation gain helps to prepare us as we go higher into the mountains and the air gets much thinner. The walk was not all that difficult, made easier because we could all leave our backpacks at the tent and travel extra light. We hiked up for a couple of hours and then took a break on the slopes. Our positioning was perfect to allow us to watch an icy waterfall break apart as the sun warmed the recently frozen water. Huge chunks of ice would break off the rock face and shatter at the bottom. We spent almost an hour relaxing and watching before heading up to a ridge top with a view and wandering back down. Just before we reached the camp we stumbled across a herd of blue sheep in short brush. We didn't realize how close we were until they bolted up the mountainside, making me envious that I couldn't trek with the same ease and grace. (Left - Ice fall).

The afternoon was spent leisurely chatting, playing games, reading and doing generally as little as physically possible. Christine and I did make a foray into the only restaurant in the village that was open with early arrivals from Phoo. We were looking to get something to drink and it turned out they actually had some Coke. Each bottle cost 200 Rupees, which is about 4 times the price in Kathmandu and about $2.50. This is actually a phenomenal deal considering that it has to be hiked in as far as we did since there are no road systems and Coke is luxury item that is really heavy. It just goes to show that you can get Coke in pretty much the most remote areas of the world, and man was it good. (Right - Rock roof in the village of Kyang).


Day 8 – Kyang to Phoo
Tuesday, November 10th
Hiking Time: 3 hours
Elevation: 4200m

(Christine) Today was a relatively easy three hour walk up a rocky, narrow valley to the village of Phoo. The weather is definitely getting colder as I wore my down jacket for the first hour and a half in the morning. Parts of the trail were exposed, etched out of the mountainsides, hundreds of years old, but wide enough to be safe. We could feel the effects of the altitude as we climbed through the valley short of breath. (Left - Hovan crossing ancient pathways in the mountains).

We approached we passed the gates of Phoo and a beautiful ancient stone structure perched high overlooking the valley. Just past the gates was a Chorten, which is a stone structure usually covered with prayer flags and ancient stone carvings which are prayers. It is customary to pass these on the left hand side as the belief is by doing this with good intention, you are respecting the prayers and intentions of the people there before you. (Right - Ancient stone carvings).

Entering into the region of Phoo was like walking back in time. In this remote Himalayan area there is no electricity or running water. There are no trees and only low shrubs on the surrounding rocky hillsides. We saw a woman who had walked hours into the valley behind us to gather firewood to ward off the cold. Phoo is built on the side of a mountain and is capped with prayer flags. Yaks are kept in the lower part of a house as the heat from the animal is used to heat the house above. Life is extremely simple in Phoo. There is one satellite phone for the entire village of 250, and this is a relatively new addition. (Left - Behind the donkey you can see the village of Phoo).

As we enter these more remote areas, there are no longer toilet facilities for us to use, so the Sherpas have taken to digging holes and erecting tents over the holes. These tents are a small step up from the squatty potties.

After another delicious lunch, a few of us headed up for a 45 minute hike to the local monastery which sits atop a hill nearby. It was quite the climb, but worth it as we crested the hilltop we were blessed to see thousands of prayer flags flapping in the wind and chortens dotting the hilltop. We met the local monks up there who happily showed us around. They took us through the monastery and showed us 400 year old scripts that held the history of the Monastery. It would be a fascinating read as no ones really seems to know the history of Phoo and each person you ask will tell you a different story. The monks are the only ones who can read the scripts, even our Buddhist Sherpa Dawa was unable to read them. (Right - Chortens at the Monastery in Phoo).

Looking across at the mountainside from the monastery, we could see an ancient pathway etched into the mountainside. We all agreed that you’d have to be completely nuts to hike on those trails as they are extremely exposed, windy and wind along mountain cliff faces. In places the trail seemed to disappear completely into cliff faces and rock screes. Little did I know that day that the very path I was looking at would be part of my story the next day.

Stay tuned for Part IV....

See more Part III pictures here